Marc Jacobs has never shied away from making blunt political or social statements with his fashion shows, taking the opportunity of each runway to address issues such as the pandemic (AW21), the US abortion ruling (AW22) and more recently, for his SS25 “Courage” collection, the second Trump administration. 

When Alessandro Michele took the reins at Valentino in March 2024, the industry watched closely. Could the designer, known for transforming Gucci into a cultural and commercial juggernaut, bring the same magic to the Roman couture house? With Valentino’s revenues down 3 percent in 2023 to €1.35 billion, and Kering’s €1.7 billion investment in the brand hinging on long-term growth, expectations were high.

Paris Fashion Week is back in full force, following runway shows in Copenhagen, New York City, London, and Milan, with the most illustrious of the French luxury houses – Christian Dior and Saint Laurent – kicking off the Day 2 Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 calendar into high-gear – quite literally.

Milan Fashion Week showcased Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' collection that challenged digital conformity by celebrating individuality through a diverse range of archival looks. Meanwhile, Fausto Puglisi revitalized Roberto Cavalli, blending the brand’s heritage with modern sustainability and raw designs. Together, these collections highlight the importance of authentic self-expression in today’s fashion landscape.

London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 showed that the city’s creative energy is still alive, offering a dynamic mix of heritage brands and experimental newcomers. This season marked the 40th anniversary of the event, with designers showcasing everything from dramatic silhouettes to refined craftsmanship, reflecting both tradition and forward-thinking innovation.

As a common practice, fashion calendars are transforming each season into ambitious business platforms, with players in the fashion capitals reinventing their tone and betting high to reach a new wave of consumers through an unrivaled, updated offering. This year’s New York Fashion Week S/S 2025 was no exception.

Wes Gordon's Spring 2025 collection for Carolina Herrera brought a fresh, youthful twist to the brand's iconic elegance, using bold colors, polka dots, and exaggerated silhouettes to update classic house codes. With nods to both the 1980s and Georgia O’Keeffe's artistic influence, the collection skillfully blended opulence with modern styling, offering a vibrant take on luxury.

Catherine Holstein’s Khaite, known for its sleek and polished aesthetic, took a more experimental turn at New York Fashion Week. Embracing a softer, warmer vibe, influenced by her personal journey, Holstein introduced new textures and silhouettes while maintaining her signature edge. Though not all risks landed, the collection offered fresh takes on layering and functionality, ensuring Khaite’s continued relevance for its style-conscious audience.

Alaïa’s New York show at the Guggenheim last night marked not just a runway event, but a strategic alignment of fashion and cultural institutions, underscoring the brand’s global vision under Pieter Mulier. This collaboration began as a casual social media interaction between the museum and the brand, highlighting one of Mulier’s sculptural dresses. What followed was a calculated move that positioned Alaïa’s identity in a context that blended the architectural with the sartorial—two disciplines long at the core of the brand’s DNA.