NYFW – KHAITE AT THE FOREFRONT OF MODERN WOMEN’S FASHION
At this year’s New York Fashion Week, Catherine Holstein's Khaite presentation drew a predominantly female audience—a testament to the brand’s resonance with affluent, style-conscious women. Khaite has carved out a niche by defining how this demographic wants to dress: refined yet edgy, with a focus on understated power rather than overt femininity. Holstein’s designs typically cater to women who value a polished look, but with a sharp edge rather than traditional prettiness.
However, this season, Holstein brought a surprise to her loyal followers. Speaking backstage, she reflected on a shift in her design perspective. “I’m in a warmer, earthier place right now,” she shared, hinting that motherhood has softened her approach. The change wasn’t immediately obvious—she opened the show with a cropped black jacket, oversized and structured in her usual style, paired with sheer organza trousers that emphasized her preference for sharp tailoring. But as the collection unfolded, it became clear that Holstein was exploring new creative terrain.
The collection showcased a range of tactile, hand-crafted elements that deviated from her typical aesthetic. Think hand-knit ribbon peplum tops paired with midi skirts, crochet apron shirts, and organza tubes woven into evening dresses and separates. Holstein acknowledged the departure from her comfort zone of sleek, dark, and tailored pieces. “We’ve ventured deep into the slickness before, but this time I wanted to push myself to embrace a different kind of discomfort,” she said.
Not all of these experiments landed. Voluminous organza poncho dresses, while light in material, overwhelmed the models wearing them, and other ballooning silhouettes fell short of flattering. However, this exploration yielded enough successful moments to maintain the attention of Khaite’s loyal base. Standout looks like a white sleeveless shift dress worn over champagne silk trousers, paired with glossy red shoes, offered fresh ideas on layering and texture. A leather blouson jacket, meanwhile, felt like a must-have piece for the season, striking the perfect balance between function and luxury.
Holstein also highlighted a black leather dress with a white strapless corset detail—a deceptively simple piece that embodied her commitment to comfort and practicality. “It’s all stretch, no boning,” she pointed out, underscoring that Khaite is about delivering ease and functionality, even in its most structured pieces. This attention to wearability is a strategic move that ensures Khaite remains relevant to its clientele, who demand both style and substance from their wardrobes. While it might not be the flashiest aspect of fashion, ignoring comfort is a mistake no designer can afford to make—something Holstein is clearly determined to avoid.
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